Knife Care
Learn maintenance tips to prevent rust, cultivate a protective patina, and achieve the perfect sharpness. Whether you have low-maintenance stainless steel or high-maintenance carbon steel knives, our advice ensures longevity and peak performance for your culinary tools.
Knife Care - Click each to learn more
For steel to be considered stainless, it must contain at least 13% chromium by weight in its alloy composition. This chromium is essential because it reacts with oxygen to form chromium oxide, a thin, clear, and hard protective layer. This layer essentially acts as a barrier, preventing rust and corrosion. However, stainless steel knives can still rust under adverse conditions, especially if the protective layer is damaged.
If the chromium oxide layer is compromised—such as by abrasive scouring pads, harsh detergents, or high humidity—the exposed steel beneath is vulnerable to rusting until the protective layer reforms, which typically takes about 24 hours. This is why it's important to treat your knives with care and avoid damaging this natural defense.
Japanese stainless steels are often formulated with higher carbon content than typical Western stainless steels, allowing for a sharper edge and superior edge retention. However, this increased carbon content makes these knives more prone to rust if not cared for properly. While they are more resistant than carbon steel knives, they are still susceptible to rust if left to drip dry or, worse, put through the dishwasher.
By following these care tips, you can ensure your stainless steel knives stay sharp, rust-free, and in excellent condition for years to come.
Carbon steel knives are not stainless but are highly regarded for their excellent edge retention, wear resistance, and sharpness, but they are reactive to acidic substances and prone to rust. Exposure to items with an acidic pH can lead to spotting and staining, resulting in the formation of a patina. This patina is a natural layer of oxidation that develops over time. While it may initially appear as discoloration, a well-cultivated patina acts as a protective barrier against rust and contributes to the knife's unique beauty.
The rate at which carbon steel knives rust can vary depending on the specific alloy. To prevent rusting, it's crucial to wipe the blade dry during heavy use and immediately after washing. If rust develops, you can remove it using a rust eraser or fine-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Avoid using heavy abrasives, such as metal scouring pads, as these can scratch the blade and create areas where moisture can accumulate, leading to significant rust damage.
Never place a carbon steel knife (or any knife) in the dishwasher. The combination of moisture and high heat will accelerate rust formation and damage the blade.
By following these guidelines, you can preserve the knife's performance and aesthetic appeal, making it a treasured part of your culinary arsenal.
Sharpening is the process of removing material from the blade to create an edge or bevel. This process generates burrs, which play a crucial role in sharpness.
A burr is defined as "a rough edge or ridge left on an object (especially metal) by the action of a tool or machine." Burrs are formed at the apex of a knife's edge during sharpening. Once created, they are refined and aligned, acting as tiny micro serrations. They assist the knife in effortlessly cutting through food products, even though they are too small to be seen with the naked eye.
After sharpening, when the knife makes contact with food or cutting surfaces, the burrs can become bent out of alignment. This is where honing becomes essential. Honing realigns the burrs, restoring the knife's sharpness. However, burrs can also fall away; when enough burrs are lost, there may be nothing left to hone back into place.
Honing can be done using either a honing steel or a strop:
For stainless steel knives, we recommend using honing rods with a rough or medium grit, whether steel or diamond-coated. The rougher grit easily breaks through the chromium oxide. Conversely, carbon steel knives respond very well to honing and sharpening due to their finer grain structure and lack of chromium, which forms chromium oxide. These knives can be honed effectively using fine-grit or ceramic rods, which have a smoother surface.
We suggest honing as needed between sharpening sessions. Additionally, honing can be performed at the end of the sharpening process to ensure the burrs are perfectly aligned.
In summary, sharpening creates the edge and refines and polishes it, generating, refining, and aligning burrs in the process. Understanding the interplay between sharpening and honing will help maintain the performance and longevity of your knives.
For home chefs who cook frequently and don’t sharpen their own knives, it’s recommended to have them professionally sharpened every three to six months. Professionals know to sharpen often, and if you're sharpening your own knives, increasing the frequency is beneficial. The more often you sharpen, the less work and fewer steps are required each time.
Sharpening by hand on stones produces the best edge but requires considerable skill and practice. If this method doesn’t appeal to you, consider using a pass-through sharpener. However, not all sharpeners are created equal. For manual sharpeners, those with a wheel tend to perform best. Whether using a manual or powered sharpener, apply only about a pound of downward pressure. Let the device do the work—don’t force it.
Sharpening stones come in various types: water stones, oil stones, and dry stones, which can be natural, synthetic, or diamond-coated. These stones range in grits, from rough to medium to fine. Hand sharpening with stones can be as simple or as detailed as you like. For simplicity, we recommend using a 1,000-grit stone, which is rough enough to sharpen while still smooth enough to leave a refined edge. However, since a 1,000-grit stone doesn’t have strong cutting power, you’ll need to sharpen regularly.
If your knife is dull, start with a rough stone (200 to 400 grit). It’s essential to progress through grits in modest increments—don’t jump from a 400 grit directly to a 3,000 grit. Instead, use a 1,000-grit stone in between.
Just as important as maintaining a sharp knife is caring for your sharpening equipment. Always keep your sharpening stone’s surface flat by fixing (lapping) the high points once the surface becomes dished. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for storage, care, and maintenance.
Finally, use caution when sharpening with powered equipment, such as belt sanders and grinders. These can easily remove too much metal, potentially altering the profile and shape of your knife. Additionally, be careful to avoid overheating the steel, as this can remove the temper, making the blade soft and less able to hold an edge.
If a knife slips from your hand, don’t try to catch it. Step back and let it fall to avoid potential injury.
Knife Care
On the go or in your kitchen, organizing and protecting your investments is important. Everyone's kitchen spaces and needs are different. Learn about edge guards, knife rolls & bags, magnetic strips, knife blocks, and in-drawer options.
Knife Storage And Organization
Knife Guards come in different styles. Some cover the blade by inserting it from the end. Others slip over the knife from the edge. Guards can be made from an array of materials like plastic, wood, or leather. Protecting the knife's edge is important when placing knives into chef rolls or knife bags. This keeps the sharp edges from banging around and protects fingers as well as damage to the bags. Furthermore, if knives are going to be stored in a drawer without an in-drawer knife organizer, it's a good idea to put edge guards over them.
Knife Storage And Organization
Knife luggage comes in a variety of options, Rolls, Bags & Backpacks. These are great options for people on the go. Always protect your fingers, knives, and luggage with knife guards.
Knife Storage And Organization
Magnetic wall strips are a great way to showcase and store your cutlery. Wall-mounted storage can save counter space too. When removing a knife from the magnet, it is recommended to gently twist the handle, bringing the cutting edge of the knife away from the strip first. Then the knife will come away easily and avoids scratching your knives if the magnet or metal is exposed. (Sometimes the magnets are covered in leather or they are hidden within wood). This order of operations will also help keep the leather or wood from cuts and scratches. When placing a knife onto the magnet, ever so slightly turn the knife's spine toward the strip first. This will keep the knife's cutting edge from damaging the strip.
Knife Storage And Organization
Knife Blocks come in several sizes, styles, and orientations. They can have magnets or, more traditionally, slots to accommodate the knife’s blade. Some claim that traditional blocks with slots can dull your knives. This is technically true to a small degree, but not necessarily, to a noticeable extent. The bigger concern is that these slots can harbor bacteria and germs. It is always suggested to put knives away, washed and completely dried.
In-drawer knife blocks are a great way to organize your cutlery and help open up more counter space. They keep the blades from banging against one another or other utensils. Always put knives away clean and dry, so the slots don't breed germs and bacteria.
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